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Car Lease vs Buy Calculator

Compare total cash out for a lease versus a loan purchase over the same term.

Page updated 2026-09-14.

Car Lease vs Buy Calculator visual
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Calculator

MSRP or negotiated buy price. Default $38,000.

Default $4,000.

Default 6.9%.

Compare window. Default 36.

Default $429.

Default $3,500.

What the car is worth at month N if you buy. Default $22,000.

Calculated Results

Lease cash out

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Buy net cost

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Buy minus lease

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Lease and buy, priced on cash out of pocket

On a $38,000 vehicle with $4,000 down and 6.9% APR financing over 36 months, buying costs $19,737.63 in net cash (down payment plus payments, minus the $22,000 expected residual value). Leasing the same term at $429/month with $3,500 due at signing costs $18,944.00 total. That makes leasing $793.63 cheaper on cash over the 36 months in this example.

The buy-side number nets out the residual value you'd still hold at the end -- the equity in the car, or what you'd get selling it -- which is the piece people forget when they compare a loan payment directly to a lease payment.

This comparison only covers the term you enter. If you plan to keep the car well past the loan payoff, buying's real advantage (owning an asset with no more payments) shows up in years the lease comparison doesn't cover.

What residual value assumptions do to this comparison

The $22,000 residual is an estimate of what the car is worth (or what you could sell it for) at the end of the term -- it isn't guaranteed, and a lower actual resale value shifts this comparison toward leasing being the better cash outcome.

Ignores tax credits and residual-risk surprises. Not auto-finance advice. Sales tax treatment, EV incentives, and lease-end wear-and-tear charges are not modeled and vary by state and manufacturer.

For the loan side specifically -- payment size and how much you'd still owe at various points in the term -- the Auto Loan Payment & Depreciation Calculator breaks that out on its own.

Where this fits with the rest of the purchase

If you're weighing a personal loan against dealer financing for the buy side, run both rates through the Personal Loan Payoff Calculator to see which one actually costs less over the term.

The same rent-vs-own logic applies to housing -- see the Rent vs. Buy Break-Even Calculator if you're running similar math on a home.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How is the $793.63 lease advantage calculated?

Buy net cost is down payment plus all loan payments, minus the expected residual value at the end ($4,000 + ($576.98-equivalent buy payment stream) - $22,000). Lease cost is drive-off cash plus every monthly lease payment. The difference between the two totals is the gap shown.

What if the actual resale value comes in below $22,000?

The buy-side cost rises, since you'd be netting out less equity at the end. A $2,000 drop in resale value adds roughly $2,000 to the effective cost of buying, which would flip this specific example further in favor of leasing.

Does this include sales tax or EV tax credits?

No. Ignores tax credits and residual-risk surprises. Not auto-finance advice. Those figures vary too much by state and vehicle to model generically -- add them to the price or down payment fields manually if they apply to your deal.

What happens if the vehicle price or loan term is left at zero?

The calculator requires both to be greater than zero and shows a validation message otherwise, since the loan payment formula can't resolve without a term to amortize over.

Which option is better if I plan to keep driving past the loan term?

This calculator doesn't answer that directly -- it only prices the term you enter. Owning outright after the loan is paid off (with no further payments) is a buy-side advantage that only shows up if you extend the comparison window past what's modeled here.